The Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs has announced sweeping new legislation requiring all establishments identifying as gastropubs to feature at least one dish containing ‘nduja on their menus from 1st April 2024.
The Spicy Calabrian Sausage Paste (Mandatory Provision) Act 2024 follows a three-year government consultation which found that ‘nduja had become so fundamental to the British gastropub experience that its absence now constitutes false advertising.
Under the new rules, any pub serving food on slate plates or offering more than two types of olives must include ‘nduja in a minimum of one starter, main, or sharing board. The legislation specifically mentions burgers, scotch eggs, arancini, flatbreads, and “anything involving the word ‘loaded'” as acceptable vehicles.
“We recognise that ‘nduja has transitioned from optional trendy ingredient to critical national infrastructure,” said Minister for Hospitality Standards, Rachel Pemberton. “Customers now expect to see it on every menu, nestled between the burnt ends and the thing that’s been confited. To deprive them of this would be unconscionable.”
Enforcement officers from the newly created ‘Nduja Compliance Unit will conduct spot checks at suspected gastropubs nationwide, verifying that the spicy spreadable salami appears on menus in a properly italicised format. Establishments found in violation face fines of up to £5,000, or mandatory rebrand as a “pub that does food” rather than a gastropub.
The regulations include detailed guidance on acceptable ‘nduja applications. While ‘nduja butter on sourdough and ‘nduja-stuffed chicken remain compliant, the government has drawn the line at ‘nduja ice cream following a disturbing incident in Shoreditch last summer.
“This brings much-needed clarity to the sector,” explained Tom Hartley, head chef at The Spotted Hen in Berkshire. “For years we’ve been putting ‘nduja on things simply because it felt legally required. Now it actually is, which is honestly less stressful.”
A parallel amendment requires all gastropub wine lists to feature at least three orange wines and one “natural” option described as “funky”. Sommeliers must be prepared to use the phrase “low intervention” a minimum of twice per table.
The legislation has received broad support from suppliers, who reported that UK ‘nduja consumption has increased by 340% since 2019, despite nobody being entirely certain what’s actually in it beyond “spicy” and “spreadable”.
However, some industry figures have raised concerns. Jennifer Walsh, owner of four gastropubs across the Cotswolds, questioned the timing. “We’ve only just finished adding Korean fried chicken to everything,” she said. “And we’ve got a walk-in fridge full of miso that needs using up. Can we at least do miso and ‘nduja together?”
DEFRA has confirmed this would be compliant, provided the dish is served on something inappropriate like a wooden board or a piece of actual roof slate.
The regulations come into force on 1st April 2024. Establishments have until 30th June to ensure compliance, though inspectors note that most venues have likely featured ‘nduja continuously since 2017 anyway.
